Since the early 1800s, Russian, Danish, and German painters arrived at Marina di Mulo, where Roman emperors had built a dock for their quadriremes and liburnas, ships that connected the island with Baia and Naples.
To these artists, who painted the enchantment of this siren-like landscape, the few inhabitants of this small seaside village would always offer a glass of wine, as a gesture of hospitality.
For decades, only a few families lived in this Little Marina: the Desiderio (Marzianiello), Spadari, Arcucci, Mellino, and Albanese families.
The patriarch of the Albanese family, Ciro, founded the first establishment in Marina Piccola at Torre Saracena in the early 1900s, which he then entrusted to the management of his son Giovanni.
Later, in the early 20th century, he created cabins where the Bagni Internazionali now stand. In the 1930s, management passed to his son Salvatore. He and Maria Mellino, known as the “Siren of Marina Piccola,” expanded the establishment, adding new spaces to better accommodate the growing number of summer tourists in search of sea and sun.
Today, the taste of the sea and the flavors of Capri still fill the air at the restaurant Da Ciro and Bagni da Maria in Marina Piccola. Ancient Caprese recipes, passed down through generations from grandmother to grandchild, come to life every day on these terraces with views of the Faraglioni Stella, Di Mezzo, and Scopulo, towering rocks that stand as sentinels to the siren island.
Lorenzo Gargiulo and Maria Elena Federico: Heirs to an Ancient Gastronomic Tradition
Lorenzo Gargiulo and Maria Elena Federico are the heirs of this rich gastronomic tradition. Lorenzo, a chef from Anacapri, has been in the kitchen since he was thirteen. “I’ve been working at this restaurant for twenty-four years,” he proudly emphasizes, “and during all this time, I’ve always offered my loyal customers traditional cuisine made with local tastes and flavors.”
The precious gifts of the sea and the countryside of Capri are the core ingredients in Lorenzo’s kitchen every day. “In winter,” he continues, smiling gently, “I experiment with new dishes in my home kitchen with what I grow in my garden and the fish that my friends give me. My family is my strictest judge.”
This flavorful Mulo cuisine, which has enchanted princes, queens, poets, and famous painters over time, is made with devotion, discretion, and passion.
The Menu: A Magical Meeting Between the Sea and the Nature of Capri
The menu at Da Ciro is a magical blend of the sea and the nature of Capri: Spaghetti alla Nerano, risotto with prawns and Capri lemons, and scialatielli with yellow tomatoes and red prawns are among the most beloved dishes by his customers. However, one of the specialties that best celebrates this combination of sea and land is the “corteccia” with mussels and wild asparagus from Capri. “This dish,” says Lorenzo with a smile, “is a symphony of flavors and colors; it’s a raviolo that enhances the nature of Capri and all your senses.”
But it is pastry that is Lorenzo’s ancient passion. “My ricotta and lemon cake is always on the menu that we prepare every morning with the maitre.”
At the Bagni Internazionali, managed with love by Antonino Vaccaro, a descendant of the Albanese family, together with his family, there is also a terrazza del gusto (taste terrace), where Maria Elena Federico and her vibrant collaborators and friends reign.
Speaking with Maria Elena brings to mind the flavors of our childhood and youth when grandmothers and mothers would pamper us with their dishes and snacks.
“I have these special bruschettas and le freselle made at an ancient bakery in Anacapri, which I enrich with cheeses, vegetables, cured meats, and wild herbs from the Capri countryside.
These delicate and fragrant crostini, each year, add a new entry to the menu: “Last year, in honor of a dear customer, I created the Crostone Susan, with homemade lemon pesto, Capri tomatoes, oregano, and fresh basil, Parmesan flakes, mixed vegetables, and potatoes. This year, I created the Crostone Lighea, the Capri siren, with black olive pâté from Anacapri, Tiberio tomatoes, tuna, island arugula, and Mesola capers.”
In the rich menu of this oasis of taste by the sea (calling it a snack bar doesn’t do it justice), eggplant parmigiana and the famous pizza Monacone are always a must.
Saying goodbye to Lorenzo, Maria Elena, and Antonino, I realized that food is also a magical and secret place of our minds, full of memories and happiness.
